One of the classes I attended at Rowany Festival last week was C16th French Women's Fashion taught by the lovely Lady Alliette Delecourt (her amazing website is over here). Now I like many others had previously assumed that French fashions were largely similar to English fashions during that time period. Lady Alliette was kind enough to correct me and at the same time gave me a new world of costuming to explore. Combine that with the previously mentioned gravity-defying-sleeve bodice pattern that I am dying to try out and we have ourselves a project!
And did I mention that Alliette has hundreds of photos on her website? I am finding myself particularly fond of the third quarter of the 16th century, so from 1550-1575. And I have some dark blue cotton velveteen that I bought at a finish the bolt sale a few years ago that I think would be perfect.
This red one looks like it might have been made out of velvet, and I like the shape of the neckline.
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| 1550 - Francoise de Breze, Duchess de Bouillon. Artist - Francois Clouet |
I like the button on sleeves from this one
I like the partlet with the little ruff from this one, although I probably won't sew quite so many little beads onto it. They will most likely be spaced a bit further apart.
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| 1565 - Claude de Beaune Artist - Francois Clouet |
Or I may even end up going with a netted one like this.
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| 1555 - Miniature of Catherine de Medici Artist - Francois Clouet |
I like the style of the sleeves here but it might be a bit ambitious. I haven't done any slashing before. I remember reading on the Festive Attyre website about how she slashed sleeves for a Venetian dress but I just looked it up and it's gone *sad face*. I'm sure there is more information out there somewhere to help me. I would love to do this slashed diamond pattern and then sew little pearls into the corner of each diamond (please forgive the poor picture - my skills are limited to Paint)
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| 1571 - Marguerite de Valois, Reine de France (1553-1615). Artist unknown |
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| Sleeve concept - slashed velvet with pearls |
I like the simplicity of the pearls on the bodice in the above picture. I am also keen to make a necklace and paste for a french hood that match, maybe even a girdle. What I do there though will depend on what beads and jewels I can get my hands on.
So where do I start?
- chemise --- I would like to make a nice fine linen one, maybe do some detachable blackwork around the neckline and cuffs so I can use it for a Tudor dress as well
- corset? --- If I can achieve the right look without one I won't bother. I have made one previously but it is slightly too big
- farthingale --- already have one
- bumroll --- already have one
- kirtle --- Probably the most important bit. I would like to make one out of wool and also use it under this fitted English gown that I have been wanting to make forever
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Fitted English Gown
The Tudor Tailor
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- gown --- blue velvet as described above
- sleeves --- as described above, not too poofy
- partlet --- at this stage all I know if I want it to have a collar with a little ruff. No idea what fabric I am going to use. Will have to do some research
- hood --- I like Alliette's idea of a layered headdress and I think it makes a lot of sense
- jewellery --- lots of pearls, maybe a little bit of gold, sapphires would look amazing if I was insanely wealthy (which I most definitely am not, but a girl can dream right?)
I think I will skip the chemise and start with the kirtle. I have other chemises I can wear for now and I really just want to play with that bodice pattern. Off I go to see what fabric I have hidden away that I can use!
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