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Tuesday 13 May 2014

Viking Pants Progress Aids Kirtle Facing Procrastination



Sounds a bit like a costuming news headline.

So when I last posted, I had almost finished the neckline of my kirtle. Well that's done now and it looks pretty awesome. I plodded away and got the facing sewn onto the lining the same way as I described here. Then I was finally able to invisible stitch the lining to the wool at the neckline. I used the same technique I would use to do a blind hem, and it was only afterwards that I though about using a ladder stitch (which I have only ever used to sew up stuffed toys). I guess it doesn't really make much difference as long as you can't see it after all.
Invisible stitch 1 - Blind Hem
Invisible stitch 2 - Ladder Stitch

I did have progress photos to post, but alas my phone updated over the weekend and decided it wanted to delete thousands of photos (including many of my kids *super upset face*) so I can only show you what it looks like now. Excuse the flash which is making it look pink on my screen.
Kirtle bodice with finished neckline
Close up of invisible stitching. Can you see it?
So I had that done by Saturday night and I was so keen to stitch up the sides so I can start on the skirt when I came to the realisation that I was going to have to do the exact same facing treatment on both sides (including the armhole), before I could sew the eyelets.


Suffice to say I REALLY wasn't looking forward to doing all that work again. I know it's got to be done but... OOH SHINY! Look over there at that linen for Dan's viking rus pants! You know he really does need pants more than I need a dress.

So I got started sewing the rus pants. And I decided I wanted to make them with french seams. I'm really not sure why since it will take twice as long. I guess I just really don't want to do that facing. I think it is also partly because I have never really mastered french seams. It's all well and good when its just a straight side seam, but I tried it once on a chemise and when I got to the underarm gussets or the gores it just became a mess. I was hoping that hand sewing rather than machine sewing might help too.
How to sew a french seam
And it did. Again no progress shots (damn you camera!!!) but here are the upper pants now with all the internal seams complete and the waistband turned down and stitched

Upper section of viking rus pants which will be gathered up and poofy
Inside view of crotch gusset
Detail view of french seams on a corner
I am so happy I finally got my head around the french seams on inserted gores/gussets. It's all about where you stitch to before you move the folded bit. If anyone wants a step by step explanation with pictures (I am sure I'm not the only one who has struggled with this) I can sit down and do it. Just let me know

So now I am doing the french seams on the lower leg section. Then all I need to do is gather up the bottom of each upper leg bit and attach it to the lower leg, and hem. Voila! Instant pants!

I have decided I'm going to inkle weave a drawstring. I found that idea somewhere else (can't recall where) and I will use the colours from this post although probably a more manly pattern like stripes :D

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