[Note: I'm not sure if the program has been updated since then, or maybe I just had a brain fart and put something in wrong - I don't know. Now that I have a better understanding of pattern drafting I just make my own (with this pattern) so I haven't tried using it again.]
I finished sewing it up anyway (who wants to waste that much linen, let alone the effort?) thinking I'd make some cuffs or something for it later. And so it sat in the tub of unfinishedness that I've mentioned before for a fair while.
Until my mum purchased an embroidery machine that is! :D
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| Brother NV950 Embroidery Machine |
I had never even considered the possibility of using a machine to do embroidery on historical garments. It just never occured to me until it was right there in front of me and I thought... I wonder if you can get machine embroidery patterns for blackwork?
Answer: absolutely!
And if you're really lucky you can find some for free! Emblibrary had some really nice patterns but I didn't want to pay for them until I sort of knew what I was doing. Luckily I found this page with some quite pretty period-looking designs for free! So I downloaded them and just had a play working out to use the machine and place the designs in the right spot on the fabric (which is the hardest part).
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| Free blackwork patterns from Thredworks |
I really liked the pattern on the right, but for some reason it stitches an extra layer on the third repeat. You can see it's much darker. So I decided on the middle one on the left for my cuffs.
Here's what I had in mind...
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| Cuff plan |
Sort of like this except above the smocking will be a plain straight sleeve instead of a puffy one (but you won't see that hopefully).
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| Smoked chemise cuff by Carol Salloum on Realm of Venus. I love the gold embroidery and even the simple smocking design |
I have wanted to do some period smocking for ages. I picked up my smocking machine a few years ago from a second hand store for $40. They cost $200-300 new. I was just lucky that the people who worked there didn't know what it was.
I didn't really know how long a piece of fabric I needed so I just guessed (and now I can't remember the dimensions). I had a bit of trouble placing the pattern so that it lined up nicely. When I measured it I realised that the left side of the pattern is 2mm taller than the right side. So that answered that question. Free pattern I guess. I also managed to stitch the fabric to itself in one spot so it's status was changed to "test piece" rather than actual item. Later I thought I might be able to make a cute little ruff collar for my daughter.
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| Embroidery "test piece" |
Afterwards I hemmed all the edges and finally got my smocking machine out. Now if anyone reading this does a lot of smocking you'll know I made a huge mistake right here. Never hem the edges before putting the fabric through the pleater. It really doesn't like the thickness. I broke three needles in the process. Lesson re-learnt.
Smocking lesson 2 - you need to hold the fabric taught and straight otherwise it gets pulled through crooked. My "test piece" proves its worth again.
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| Pleated "test piece" |
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| What it looks like as a cuff. I think the length I chose (and forgot) was good. |
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| And with the chemise on. I'll have to wear it with sleeves so you can't see the join. Then it should give the illusion of lots of fabric in the sleeves |
Another option I just came up with for this "test piece" is to make a partlet for Grace and sew it on as a collar.
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| Simple partlet |
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| What it might look like as a collar. If I were to make one deliberately as a collar it would need to be a longer piece and the pleats aren't as dense here. |
Although I wasn't really sure how that would work. And I couldn't find a picture of anything similar which means it's probably not historically accurate. But I didn't want to waste it!
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| Basic partlet shape cut out and pinned. It's a bit large for her but I make all their garb really big as they just grow so fast |
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| With blackworked piece pinned on |
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| Smocking done with gold metallic embroidery thread in a really simple pattern |
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| Finished partlet (minus ties) |
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| As worn at Adora's Feast of Four Winds, Nov 2014 |
Now I've hopefully made all the mistakes there is to make so I can get started on the cuffs. Or maybe I'll just leave that chemise how it is and make a new one? Who knows
